Ruminations From the Western Slope

Ruminations From the Western Slope
Colorado River near Moab, Utah

Wednesday, April 10, 2019

The Last Road Trip - Part 6


Tuesday, March 26         Barstow, California

Yesterday I awoke to clear skies and cool temperatures, got some coffee going and, after a bit of warm up, got myself on the trail again.  I decided to walk to the Balconies and back, a round trip of about five mostly level miles.  I have so much history and so much familiarity with this place that just about anywhere in the park, I feel comfortable and welcome.  I parked at the trailhead, grabbed my cameras and trusty walking stick, and began walking the trail that was once the road to “Old Pinnacles”.  I remembered a time back in 1964 when Stan and I drove this road on January 1 and camped at the base of the Balconies.  It was bitter cold and no one else was crazy enough to be camping there.  We spent the night sleeping in his parents’ old Ford.

The trail as it is now pretty much follows the south fork of Chalone Creek which is currently flowing with fresh, clear water.  I took my time ambling along, stopping to photograph wildflowers as I came upon them….shooting stars, a chaparral nightshade, milkmaids.  I passed the former site of the Chalone Creek Campground, closed many years ago and now just a part of the natural creekbed.  This is the spot where I took LSD for the very first time back in December of 1967.  Why we persisted in visiting the park in the dead of winter, I will never know.  But I do recall that, with rain imminent that day, we (Jim, Stan, Steve and I) all high tailed it over to Santa Cruz taking refuge in a friend’s crash pad.  There, as I came down from my acid trip, we listened to Jefferson Airplane’s latest LP, After Bathing At Baxters, and the music absolutely transported me to another place.  Still one of my favorite records to this day.

In any case, the walk was near perfect as the trail crossed the shallow creek several times, wove through little forested groves of buckeye and blue oak, and across sunny stretches of chaparral.  Eventually I caught sight of the huge massif called the Balconies, an enormous chunk of rhyolitic stone rising above the canyon.  The Balconies Caves were closed due to high water but I walked as far as I could to where an iron gate blocked my path.  Beyond the gate I could hear the roar of falling water coming out of the dappled darkness.  A few minutes later, as I started back, I found an old log to sit on where I could snack on an apple and some dried venison.  Above me loomed the towering Machete Ridge, another major landmark of the area.  One could call it the El Capitan of Pinnacles.

The return trip seemed to go quickly and I was back at the campground by 2pm.  I spent the rest of the afternoon reading and relaxing in the sun, watching turkey vultures soar on afternoon updrafts and California quail scurrying from one bush to the next.  When I woke up this morning the sky was overcast and threatening rain.  So I packed up hastily and began what was basically my return trip home.  The highway beyond the park wound through velvety green hills of the Gabilan Range, then turned east over the more rugged southern Diablos toward Coalinga.  After that it was the long and boring drive south on Interstate 5 through the arid and empty landscape of the western San Joaquin Valley.  Then up and over the Tehachapis at Arvin before dropping into the true desert at Mojave.  Exactly 300 miles from my campsite at Pinnacles to the Hotel 6 in downtown Barstow.  The beginning of the end.

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